Home

I've been home in the US now for over a week, and the reality of it is beginning to set in. It seems so crazy that I just spent three and a half weeks in Israel, half way around the world, with strangers...and now I'm back in Virginia viewing everything with an adjusted lens. I think the moment that contrasted most in my mind was last Wednesday at work I was watching the children at camp fly across inflatable obstacle courses in a gym, and realized that a week before I had been sitting with future Israeli diplomats in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs discussing our future plans and how to best utilize local consulates. That my friend, is a juxtaposition of two worlds and I realized my brain has been teetering back and forth between these two realities. Now, both can be reality in my life, but life was all a blur after stepping off of a plane from across the world.

I am anxiously anticipating my return to campus in two days. Obvious reasons, my boyfriend and my best friend. Also I am thrilled to be moving into an apartment and living with some awesome girls. I am excited to have my own room again and be able to organize my life as much as I can. I am excited to see my Bongiorno girls and spy on Allison and Marissa as new RAs. As my last year in undergrad I know that I have many decisions to be making soon and I have received some solid advice over the last week. and I plan to implement it, as well as I can.

Reflections

Back in Jerusalem with stable internet, so I can update once more. Since I wrote last we left Tel Aviv, went to the Galilee and am now back in Jerusalem. Here's a list of what we've seen so far: Independence Hall, Caesarea, Mt. Carmel, Issafiya, Efrat, Nazareth, Mt of Beatitudes, Capernaum, Tiberias, Golan Heights, Zefat, and Bethlehem in the West Bank. Busy schedule nay?

I swam under a waterfall, hiked a volcano, visited two army bases, and went through the Palestinian check point out of Bethlehem. Today we spent time at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs hearing lectures and interacting with cadets who are in training to be diplomats. There's only a few days left before we fly back. I've uploaded almost 800 pictures on Facebook, so its like you can see everything I've seen. Almost. :)

Adventure

Hello again world. I was unable to write for a few days because apparently, internet is hard to come by in the desert. Yes, I spent the last few days in the wilderness of the Bible. I always envisioned thick shrubs or perhaps a jungle. Yet the natural world here is unlike any other place imaginable.

Our adventure began with a visit to Ein Gedi, an ancient spring used by King David long ago. We read the passage about David and his men sitting in the back of a cave that King Saul entered when David was fleeing for his life as we looked up at the caves all around us in that same region. The springs were beautiful. The water was fresh and pure and the rocks framed the sky, with a view of the Dead Sea close behind. It was a utopia, a glimpse at an unpolluted world of natural, exhilarating beauty. I didn't want to leave and I am looking forward to when I can return.

Also, we visited the Qumran community. Yes, I saw the cave where the first Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. Yes, I am very excited about that and realize it is nerdy.

A few hours later, at least it seemed, we arose at 4 am for a sunrise hike of Massada. Pro: hiking in the early morning hours means no blaring sun in the desert heat. Con: it was 4 am.

It was difficult, but it was a good time. No one died. I of course reached that semi-nauseous stage, which I will do anything to avoid. Luckily I found myself hiking next to my friend Zac who was an army medic. I consulted him as if he was my personal physician. I reported my symptoms and demanded immediate advice and attention. Thanks to his help, I did not pass out at the top of that mountain. Amely also walked with me and didn't mind when I took water breaks. I am making this sound very dramatic, don't get me wrong, Massada is a huge rock jutting out from the desert floor. There's a reason Herod built his fortress on this choice spot. There's a reason it took the Romans months to have a ramp built up to the stronghold's walls. We did see the sunrise from a tower on top of the mountain, though I did not want to welcome another set of stairs.

The same day we received the Israeli spa treatment: rub thick black mud all over your body, let dry in sun, and wash it off as you float atop the Dead Sea. First, the Dead Sea does not look dead. I was slightly surprised. It doesn't smell, there are no rotting fish, its bright turquoise. Also, I enjoyed floating in the Dead Sea more than I thought I would. You could of course sit in the water. You can also lay on your stomach and swim almost on top of the water. If you go deep enough you can stand and jump like you're on a trampoline. Fantastic. After this we tried out the hot sulphur pool. Caution: hot means really hot in Israel. It wasn't just a jacuzzi temperature. I decided to tan instead after a few minutes in the pool.

Today was perhaps the biggest adventure of all. We drove across the Negev Desert climbing up I think 1500 feet from the depths of the Dead Sea. We passed Bedouin settlements of tin and cardboard among the sand dunes, with camels and sheep wandering in herds. Then we arrived in Sederot, a city in close proximity to the northern corner of the Gaza Strip. 3 km away to be exact. The city is so close the residents only have a 15 second warning when the siren goes off to seek shelter. This if course is true only if all conditions, such as weather and technology, are functioning at top performance. We saw schools with shrapnel damage and concrete reinforcements and bomb shelters as playground equipment and bus stations. Last Saturday two rockets hit nearby. We ascended a hill and looked across the highway below to see the outline of the buildings of Gaza. There is no fence to divide the are where we stood, just a dirt path. There was a zephyr in the sky to detect rocket firings along with two tall towers with sensors. It was an eerie, surreal feeling to be so close to a city ruled by a terrorist organization, that is exploiting its citizens, a place where rockets are fired at this normal community of families because of the radical ideologies triumphed by Hamas and all the other threats.

I am now, obviously, safe and sound in Tel Aviv. But there are families now on both sides of the divide who are wondering what tomorrow will bring. For the Gazans, there is the reality of being ruled by an organization that exists to exterminate another people group. For the Israelis, there is the reality of being the recipient of genocidal attempts from a neighboring area, during a time of ceasefire.



view at Ein Gedi



sunrise from Masada



rockets that were fired into Sederot



caterpillar bomb shelter on the play ground



me pointing at the Gaza Strip

[more pictures tomorrow, its loading slow and i need to sleep]

Community

Yesterday we arrived in Efrat, a smaller community in Israel, much different than the scenery of Jerusalem. Still, entirely beautiful and serene. We have spent the last two days at the Center for Jewish-Christian Understanding and Cooperation. Our session topics included who is a prophet, are there really ten commandments, who is the devil, and Ishmael and Isaac. The perspective was from a Judaism paradigm and the style ranged from classroom lecture to full-out discussions, often loud and vigorous. I enjoyed the content and overall enjoyed the discussion. It was reminiscent of a Dippold class, just from a Jewish lens.

We were also able to share Shabbot dinner with our new friend David, who graciously shared the day with us part from his family and taught us about the ancient tradition. We also attended the beginning of a Shabbot synagogue service, where we listened to the congregation sing Psalm 95-100, then a welcome song to the Queen of Shabbot. It was very beautiful. There's something majestic about the antiquity of the beliefs and customs that are passed on through families. The sense of community is different from the atmosphere that I have experienced so far in the Western church. I'm not saying I don't have community at home, there's just simply a different flavor to these experiences.

Tonight after Shabbot ended [left] we walked to the corner store to purchase water before we head to the desert tomorrow. Bad news, the grocery store was closed. Good news, the pizza shop was open and they sell Ben & Jerry's ice cream. I feasted on Dulce de Leche chocolate swirl ice cream with some friends and am now ready for bed after an intense sugar high.

http://www.cjcuc.com/

Freedom

We met with two awesome organizations this morning. Stand with Us is among other things, a great resource for information about Israel and the Middle East conflict. [www.standwithus.com] The other group is Honest Reporting, a news watchdog that monitors the international coverage of Israel. They communicate with journalists and look for bias in word usage, photography, and other areas. As a service to journalists they also provide information about the country and local services. [honestreporting.com]

This afternoon we had a chance to explore the town square on our own. I had filafel for lunch, a local favorite that does include hummus. We journeyed to Brook's favorite coffee shop but alas, they were out of white chocolate! She had been raving about the white chocolate dream and we were unable to purchase the goodness. Thus we drowned our sorrows in cherry chip and chocolate truffle gelato. We laughed alot and observed the beautiful city. I was noticing how much more lax this trip is about where you are and what you're doing than any other I've been on. I realized this may be because its not a mission trip, but also as I compared and analyzed the surroundings here in Jerusalem it struck me how safe I feel in this city. I'm not being naive and running down the street with my passport in one hand and wallet full of shekels in the other. However, there's a peace to the community thats almost tangible.

We did pass the prime minister's house this morning. We stopped by to observe a protest, for the freedom of Gilad Shalit, a young Israeli soldier kidnapped over 4 years ago being held in Gaza currently. The terrorist group Hamas originally demanded 1000 prisoners' release in exchange for this one man's life. The number now falls around 450, yet Hamas will not consent. They have violated international laws but not allowing the Red Cross to check on his needs and condition. His parents marched to the city, with thousands joining them along the way, in order to lobby his release. It is certainly an interesting predicament. Israel values human life, and here is a situation where a countrymen has been left behind and is in the enemy's hands. What is better? To release known terrorists to retrieve one man, while more attacks may take place, seems foolish to some. Yet others disagree, creating an internal national conflict. [www.habanim.org/en/index_en.html]

In the afternoon we went to the old City of David, to newly excavated ruins. We walked through Hezekiah's tunnel, which was a canal for the spring to transport the water. So, we walked for 30 minutes through water in a dark and narrow cave. It was quite an adventure. A little unnerving at times, but fun. After dinner we went to the Western Wall and walked in the tunnels beneath the street level, along the length of the wall near the foundation stone.

Now, we are going to bed as we have an early morning and are leaving for Eifrat tomorrow to spend Shabbot in the city.

Hospitality

This morning we arrived at the Israeli House of Parliament, the Knesset. Thank God for Mr. Hoffman and COGO for teaching me about the parliamentary system, so I'm able to understand the 14 parties and weekly vote of confidence. Sidenote, for years all I knew about the Israel-Palestinian conflict was from a simulation in 9th grade, Mr. Stanley's class.

So, we met three leaders from the three main parties in Israel currently. It was a great experience to hear their unique perspectives on achieving peace, yet seeing the overarching stance, the heartbeat of the country, that Israel will remain a Jewish nation in the Holy Lands. Then we went to the municipality of Jerusalem and met with a councilman. He described the current goals and challenges for the trade industry of the capital city. As we were visiting these official sites, the group was dressed up in business attire. We turned alot of heads, as apparently no one in Israel dresses up. Or rather, its extremely rare, even for a man to wear a tie. So we stuck out even more today on the streets.

Our guide at the Knesset invited us to her home for tea in the afternoon. This was a great privilege and a fun time. The home was a narrow yet spacious apartment considering its size and age. It looked new inside but was located in a historic area near the market. On her balcony you could see other rooftops across the neighborhood. A British Jew married to a South African Jew, she has been married six months. Her husband regaled us with his guitar, playing a traditional Hebrew song, the national anthem to a ska beat, and a Zulu song.

In other news: I slipped on the curb today and fell completely on my side on the street today. In a dress. With the camera around my neck. I think I've survived with only a few cuts and a potential bruise.

Sorrow

Today is a day set apart on the Jewish calendar. Tisha B'av. This day marks the ruin of the first temple. Also, the ruin of the second temple. The Jewish people fast on this day to commemorate the destruction of the temple, the place that was made to house God's presence. We went to Yad Vashem today, also known as the Holocaust museum. The tour guide said that the human brain can only process as much as it wants to. This I believe, there's no way I can even begin to comprehend the atrocities 6 million Jews and other social pariahs experienced. I was holding up a strong emotional front. I did almost lose control at the end of the tour when we were told to focus on one face among the 600 final photographs. I settled upon a girl about my age with a wedding veil across her forehead falling to her shoulders. Then I noticed next to her picture the image of a baby girl with a giant bow in her hair. The individualization and understanding of the hopes and dreams expressed in this pictures was overwhelming in combination with the horror we had seen from the safety of a museum display.

We were blessed with the opportunity to speak with a Holocaust survivor, Asher Ud. He shared his story how at a young age his family was broken up in Poland due to the concentration camps, only to see his brother forty years later. He said he is not a religious man, but he still believes there is a God who is the reason he made it through.

Isaiah 56:5 "to them I will give within my temple and its walls
a memorial and a name "

Reading scripture about Jerusalem feels different when you are in the city.

Isaiah 40:1-5
"1 Comfort, comfort my people,
says your God.

2 Speak tenderly to Jerusalem,
and proclaim to her
that her hard service has been completed,
that her sin has been paid for,
that she has received from the LORD's hand
double for all her sins.

3 A voice of one calling:
"In the desert prepare
the way for the LORD ;
make straight in the wilderness
a highway for our God.

4 Every valley shall be raised up,
every mountain and hill made low;
the rough ground shall become level,
the rugged places a plain.

5 And the glory of the LORD will be revealed,
and all mankind together will see it.
For the mouth of the LORD has spoken."

Complications

Today was a thinking day. Three lectures, three locations, three perspectives. First we visited Hebrew University, which is on top of Mount Scopus with a fantastic view of the city and the Judean Dessert that on a clear day hints of the Jordanian horizon. We received a gracious welcome from the Rothberg International College staff and learned about the programs they offer. I've only been in Israel for four days and I'm already becoming more and more interested in Hebrew. Perhaps this is because I am easily romanced by languages. I wish I had the capacity to learn everyone I encounter. Of course I haven't put much effort into it. Right now I have English, the remnants of six years of Spanish, an elementary understanding of ancient Greek, and Jibberish so I could talk to Theresa and make fun of Michael Tavani.

Our first lecture was an overview of the current political conflict, with proposed solutions by a liberal secular Israeli. One, the idea of a federation for Israel, Jordan, Gaza, and West Bank interested me. I don't know how well it could be executed, but its an innovative idea. Though the professor pointed out that Reagan had suggested it and been laughed at. Then we met the endearing woman of God Rev. Petra, a German Lutheran female pastor, who discussed the existence of dhimmitude, a state of living imposed upon religious minorities in Muslim nations. A dhimmi is a Christian or a Jew who does not convert, who then must pay a tax to ensure protection of their lives. This status strips the minority of rights of voting and most control over life decisions. Our third speaker was a hilarious Iranian Christian who is now living in Israel. He discussed the danger of Iran and its budding nuclear program and his suggestion of how to deal with Iran and Gaza.

Needless to say, my brain is filled to the brim with information.

Justice

Today we met with Dmitry Radyshevsky, a brilliant Jewish thinker and writer. Our session lasted six hours and it flew by much faster than a night class that is half the time. I took seven pages of notes and have not even begun to digest the fullness of his lecture. He presented the current situation in Israel from a bird's eye view on history, describing the various evils that have come against Israel and the Jewish resilience to stand and testify as to what it means to be God's people. I'm sure I will divulge more at a later date, but my bed time is swiftly approaching. He did mention the need for educational reform that focuses on morals, creating an alternative to madrassas that propagate extreme [violent] jihad and the need to empower women. This is right in line with what I want to do.

Main points: demand an end to gender apartheid and religious apartheid in the Middle East
Side point: Challenge Obama to use our resources to help Africa become a thriving continent during their time of need and before something else fills the void

Other point: my brain is tired

Goodnight

Shabbot Shalom

Sabbath began Friday at sunset, which is known in Israel as Shabbot. Shabbot is considered a person, a she to be exact. As Christians view the Church as the Bride, so Jews view Shabbot as the queen. Shabbot comes and Shabbot leaves. She leaves at sunset today, when we will have a fresh dinner prepared for us. Until then we have downtime for the afternoon. This is to help us refresh from jet lag yet we have already had a very busy morning while all my friends in America were asleep.

First, we ascended the Mount of Olives and overviewed the other other side of Jerusalem and the City of David. We saw a Jewish cemetery, which is strategically place on the Mount as it is prophesied that the Messiah will return on Mount of Olives, thus they will be some of the first to be resurrected. Then as we walked down we stopped at the Church of the Teardrop, the site Jesus over looked Jerusalem and said:
"O Jerusalem, Jerusalem, you who kill the prophets and stone those sent to you, how often I have longed to gather your children together, as a hen gathers her chicks under her wings, but you were not willing. Look, your house is left to you desolate. For I tell you, you will not see me again until you say, 'Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord."
Then we went to the Garden of Gethsemane. The church there is beautiful, the mosaic on the front is great. We got to walk around a private section and spend some time reflecting. Next we walked the Via Dolorosa, which is lined with shops filled with religious paraphernalia. The church of the Holy Sepulcher was an interesting experience. Four different churches have rights to it but ironically the church is owned by a Muslim man.

Also! We went to the Eastern or Golden Gate, where the Messiah is believed to reenter the city of Jerusalem victoriously. When He does there will be a river flowing out of the gate into the Kidron Valley. It was an awesome experience to be standing there in that physical location.
Psalm 24:7
"Lift up your heads, O you gates;
be lifted up, you ancient doors,
that the King of glory may come in."
The gate has been filled in with cement a cemetery placed in front so as to make the return of the Messiah impossible according to Jewish tradition, as priests will become unclean if found in a cemetery.

Now I am chatting with my lovely roommates Sarah and Brooke. We are sharing the best stories. :)


Me with Jerusalem in the background




The Church of All Nations mural




The Eastern Gate




Me in the Garden of Gethsemane

Jet. Lag.

Currently I am sitting on a bed in Jerusalem with freshly shampooed hair, listening to the sound of the lunch crowd and local music floating through the fifth floor window. This is the result of many, many hours awake. I still feel like the world is spinning. I don't think its dehydration. It might be this funny thing called jet lag.

What day is it? Um, Friday. Yes. Friday. I have almost lost all sense to comprehend my surroundings. Its mid afternoon here. We landed at 5 am. Since then we went to the ancient city of Joppa and surveyed the city of Jerusalem from a vantage point. I had the most ridiculous breakfast [?]. Its a local custom we were all encouraged to try. Breakfast in Israel is spicy. In other food news, I was served hummus on the flight here. I approve.

The flight was about 9.5 hours. I thought I would maybe sleep. Or watch a bunch of movies.

False.

There were 12 channels available, with only 6 choices as half are in Hebrew. I could not sleep of course. Maybe in short spurts, but not a significant amount. Good news, my seat neighbor was a real Jewish man. Yes. He had a big hat, and a long beard. He gave me small snippets of advice and always made sure I knew what was going on. He was reading a Hebrew copy of Job since his mother had just passed away. He explained that this book was useful for teaching in such a time. Also, he pointed out the rip in his suit jacket and explained that mourners tear their garments. We compared Hebrew and Greek and I wrote a few alphabet letters for him. As we were leaving he told me if I was ever in Caesarea to come visit his wife and kids.

Before that, we were at the airport waiting for our shuttle flight which was cancelled. We had been up since 3:30 and then were just sitting in an airport. Sidenote, I am fighting sleep as I type. We went to bed the night before about midnight because we went to a conference service that ran long. Pentecostal style.

Seriously, everything you may associate with the branding of Pentecostal occurred in that meeting. I'm still processing it. Not bad, just thought provoking. Also, there were the most flags and banners I've ever seen in my life.

God shining on his city



My first Israeli meal

The Beginning

I'm beginning to be excited.

Also, I'm relieved I don't have more luggage than everyone else.

I arrived at the hotel, early. I tried taking a picture out of the window but was met with the view of a parking lot. Havilah assured me that there will be grander views in Israel. We are going to a Eagle's Wings conference tonight, then up bright and early to fly to New York, then back to DC, then to Tel Aviv! We're not expected to land until about 5 pm Friday local time. It'll be like spending a day in the clouds, with the travel time + time zone changes. There are worse things of course.